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THE PETIT DEJEUNER TECHNIQUE:
Chic Breakfast


NOTE: This technique is an example of the techniques that make up Chic & Slim TECHNIQUES by Anne Barone. This particular technique is NOT one of the 10 techniques included in the book, but rather a preview technique to acquaint you with the format of the Techniques book.


Breakfast sets the tone for eating for the entire day.

Your breakfast plays a crucial role in your efforts to be chic and slim. How much food you really need in the first hours after rising depends on a number of factors including your own physiology, what you will eat for lunch, how much and at what time you ate your evening meal the night before, and your activity level.

You can probably become slim eating some of the more nutritious breakfast cereals -- especially if you eat them without adding any sugar to the milk. (In which case the stuff will taste really blah.) But breakfast cereal was what I ate when I was a fatty. Just seeing a bowl of the stuff is a depressing reminder of all those years I was fat. I don't even want to watch other people eat the stuff, much less taste it.

Anyway, how can you feel sophisticated and chic if you have started out your day with a bowl of soggy, nutrition-robbed, tasteless, extruded carbohydrate flakes? What about cooked cereal? True, cooked cereals made from whole, natural grains offer better taste and good nutrition. But cooked cereal is pretty low on the sophistication scale. Unless your idea of sophistication is a peasant slurping up a bowl of gruel.

I can't imagine a chic French woman eating a dish of oatmeal or buckwheat groats, then putting on a sexy skirt and three-inch heels and tripping off down the rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré. Non! Non! Non!

As I said in the introduction to this technique, how much food you need for breakfast depends on a number of factors. The years when I was eating meals consisting of French cuisine served in several courses somewhat late in the evening, I found my fruit (usually papaya or grapefruit) eaten with a three-inch chunk of baguette with a bit of butter and jam and coffee sufficient. Other times and places in my life, I have found different versions of breakfast worked for me. In recent years, I find that a more substantial whole grain bread that includes ground flax seeds sustains me better through the morning than simply a chuck of baguette made from unbleached white flour.

My usual breakfast is a a wedge of the Barone Breakfast Bread, a recipe I developed using for the most part whole grains. My breakfast beverage is usually hot tea instead of coffee. I often add about a tablespoon of whole milk to my cup of tea if I am drinking an Assam, a Ceylon, or an English or Irish breakfast tea. I skip the milk in the tea if I am spreading a white cheese in place of butter on my bread. Or if my tea is one that is simply so good that I do not want to minimize its wonderful taste in any way, I would also skip the milk. French breakfast tea is usually a Ceylon. If I drink SpecialTeas.com's wonderful Kenilworth Estate Ceylon or Lover's Leap from the Dimbulla Estate for breakfast, then I do not add milk.

I understand from people who have recently lived and visited in France that the French are beginning to eat breakfast cereals. Why? Why would the French want to eat that dry, tasteless stuff when, on every street in town, they can buy these wonderful freshly baked breads? Why, when they have that wonderful Normandy butter and those delicious all fruit jams, would they want to eat breakfast cereal? Baffling. And discouraging. Is this what globalization produces?

One misconception Americans have about French breakfasts is that the French eat croissants and brioche for breakfast. In my experience, croissants and brioche were considered pastry and eaten on special occasions and for treats at times when one would eat dessert. True, in French hotels they often serve croissants to Americans since that is what Americans seem to expect served for a French breakfast. But I did not see those chic, very slim French women eating croissants and brioche for breakfast. Sorry.

When I think of a French breakfast, I think of breakfast at a sidewalk cafe on a Parisian summer morning. The night rain has washed the streets and buildings. In their planters, red geraniums sit rain-refreshed and brilliant in the crystal morning light. It is early. Waiters, their white aprons spotless and stiff are setting out chairs and little tables on the sidewalk. When the waiter brings the little metal pot of coffee and the pitcher of milk, the rich, fragrant steam swirls up as he approaches. Along with the coffee aroma, you can smell the yeasty baguette arrived so recently from the morning baking at the nearby boulangerie. The creamy butter and the jewel-colored berry jam glisten in their little dishes. You pour coffee and milk into the heavy white ceramic cup, lift it to your lips, and carefully sip. You taste Paris.

In Roughing It On The Rue de la Paix, the American in Paris Dorothy Adelson describes a typical French breakfast served by her chic French friend Simone. "Simone adored coffee, and there was coffee, with hot boiled milk, French bread and butter and cherry jam. We drank our coffee out of big round bowls without handles." And the chic Simone breakfasts dressed in a silk wrap robe with a scarf twisted "carelessly and with magnificent rightness around her neck." Need I tell you that, of course, Simone is slim as well as chic.

So do all those slim, chic French women dutifully eat their tartine (that's what the French call the chunk of baguette spread with butter and jam) and drink their coffee laced with milk for breakfast? Actually not. To be perfectly truthful, a lot of slim French women, as a lot of slim women in other countries, do not eat breakfast. Though a lot of them do charge up for the morning on a cup of that strong French coffee.

American nutritionists frown on coffee-only breakfasts. American nutritionists's breakfasts seem to involve a bowl of whole grains of some sort with soy or rice milk, or a protein with vegetables. I can honestly say I have never seen a French woman eat any sort of vegetable for breakfast. American nutritionists usually frown on cups of strongly caffeinated coffee. They want your beverage caffeine-free, preferably herbal.

When I was a fatty following various of the unsuccessful diets that I tried, the advice was invariably to eat a good breakfast. To someone with a huge appetite like mine, I always interpreted a good breakfast as a lot of food. I could pack in juice, cereal, toast with jam and margarine, bacon , eggs, and maybe a glass of milk and a cinnamon roll with pecans just to finish things off. (Yikes! Any wonder I outweighed most of the high school football team? )

Yet, I observed that when I ate a more reasonably sized breakfast, just a hard-boiled egg, two strips of bacon, a slice of toast with a tiny bit of margarine and jam, I generally had more success in sticking to reasonable amounts of healthy food for the other meals of the day. I was not so likely to crave high-calorie snacks. I was never certain if this was psychological or physical. Some recent research results I have read suggests that it was likely physical, especially considering the effect of simple carbohydrates on insulin levels. But I am also sure there was a psychological factor too.

In Dr. Robert Ziff's Secrets of the French Diet, his more recent observations of the French at breakfast agree with those of mine made some decades ago. He observes that many French do not eat breakfast or have only coffee. But he recommends having a light breakfast if you are trying to lose weight. (Remember that the French are not trying to shed ten or twenty pounds. They have never allowed themselves to become overweight.) Dr. Ziff cautions that there are dangers in eating too much for breakfast because a large breakfast expands the stomach, and for many people, this will cause them to be hungrier at lunch than if they did not eat at all. He advises: "Eat just enough at breakfast so that you are full -- not overfull -- and when lunchtime comes, you will have no trouble deciding you are full before you overeat." Moderation. Moderation.

Dr. Ziff, an American doctor with culinary training in French cuisine who has spent much time in France (a great deal of that time spent eating French cuisine apparently), recommends several versions of French breakfast for the weight-conscious American. Breakfast No. 1 is a section of French baguette with jam, a small glass of juice or a small piece of fruit and cafe au lait made with 1% milk. His Breakfast No. 3 is the bread and cafe au lait with fruit and cheese in place of the jam and juice. His Breakfast No. 2 does, I regret to say, include breakfast cereal.

To me anything less than whole milk tastes terrible in coffee or tea. And the French women I knew always preferred whole milk or real cream. Like them, I prefer the fatted version of milk: whole milk for tea and whole milk, half and half, or most especially real cream for coffee. As for butter on the bread, I always thought that the teeny bit of butter that chic French women took on the point of their knife and spread and spread on their bread hardly counted. Dr. Ziff also says that the French eat fresh fruit and yogurt in the morning. And his observation of the eating of croissants and brioche is, like mine, that they are holiday foods, not ones eaten at an everyday breakfast.

In his book Low Fat Lies, High Fat Frauds, author Dr. Kevin Vigilante in writing about the "the healthiest diet in the world," the Mediterranean diet, says that many Mediterraneans eat a light Continental breakfast. They may have fruit, yogurt, or fiber-rich bread with fruit spread. Occasionally they will eat eggs. Fiber-rich bread would be those with whole grains for all or part of the flour. And let us remember this Mediterranean diet is eaten in southern France, that region in which French woman Jeanne Calment achieved her 122 years -- despite smoking until 115.

When Dr. Vigilante writes "fruit spreads," he is indicating the French jams made with fruit and fruit juice with no sugar added. In my favorite Provence cookbook, A Taste of Provence by Leslie Forbes, the author whose charming illustrations accompany this travel/cookbook, writes:

The men start work early on summer mornings, at about five or six, but are back in three hours to eat a la fourchette eggs and cheese, or gratins left over from last night's supper. The women make do with large bowls of cafe au lait in which to dip bread smeared with homemade jam, usually fig or watermelon.


Leslie Forbes's Provence fig jam recipe inspired me to the fig jam recipe that I included in both Chic & Slim books. Her authentic Provence recipe is more exotic than mine. It includes vanilla as well as a bouquet garni of mint, thyme and marjoram. In addition to describing the petit dejeuner of Provence, Leslie Forbes also describes the midmorning casse-croute.

The main meal of the day is at noon but the casse-croute (which means literally breaking the crust) staves off pangs of midmorning hunger. It may be a rolled herb omelette, soup in a flask or a chunk of strong cheese -- Lou Cachat -- on crusty bread.

I gave given you what the travel/cookbook writer and the doctors say about breakfast. So what do slim, beautiful women tell us that they eat for breakfast?

In 1994 on the eve of her 60th birthday, actress Sophia Loren, who has for decades been considered one of the most beautiful women in the world, told Heather Kirby who interviewed her for Good Housekeeping that she rose at 5:00 AM and her breakfast was coffee and two slices of bread with butter and jam.

In 1999 on the eve of her 65th birthday, Sophia Loren told the interviewer for a People magazine article that she still rises at 5:00 AM. She describes her breakfast as decaf coffee and an English muffin. She then has a midmorning snack of sandwiches. She eats a large lunch (mid-afternoon) of pasta, chicken, salad, and fruit. She eats little dinner. She goes to bed by 8:00 PM, she says.

In an article by Jane Wilkens Michael in Town & Country, she quotes French public relations whiz Yanou Collart. "The first thing I do when I get up is drink a large glass of mineral water at room temperature which cleanses the entire system. Then it's a light breakfast of plain yogurt, black coffee (no sugar) and freshly squeezed grapefruit juice one day, hot water with lemon the next. "

Helena Rochas, creative advisor and spokeswoman for Parfums Rochas, Paris, told Susan Sommers in Beauty After 40 "I eat a little of everything, but in very small amounts. Iıve always eaten very little. Some protein in the morning--yogurt with honey--then a very light lunch." She also says in speaking of food that she drinks a lot of mineral water and tea. Though she does not say if she drinks any of this tea with breakfast.

Well, cheers for Madame Rochas (she created the perfume of that name) if she can get through the morning on just a little yogurt. As I have said elsewhere, I would not get out of bed if I thought I could eat only yogurt.

I remember reading that Jackie Onassis "nibbled on a hard boiled egg" as her chauffeur drove her to work when she was an editor in New York publishing. The hard boiled egg is fine, but I need some good bread with it. And a couple cups of hot tea or coffee.

Also in the book Beauty After 40, Baroness Nadine de Rothschild, wife of the Baron Edmon de Rothschild describes her eating:
I love to eat--and find it very hard to diet. I prefer to eat more, thus weigh more and be happy, than to deprive myself and feel depressed. I always have breakfast and lunch, and because of our involvements and life-style, large dinners too. I drink a liter of water before breakfast and take magnesium pills every day and have for twenty years. I find them indispensable for my skin, my nerves.
As I said previously in this chapter, what you eat for breakfast depends on a variety of factors including your age, your physiology, what you eat for the other meals of the day. And your own personal preferences.

In Princess Ira von Furstenberg's 1981 book Young At Any Age: thirty-three of the worldıs most elegant women reveal how they stay beautiful, a number of the women interviewed provided information on their daily food habits. These women were almost all slim or at least not more than 10 pounds overweight, yet they demonstrated that breakfasts can be approached in a variety of ways and still maintain a normal, healthy weight.

Of course my favorite response was from the Swiss actress Marthe Keller who commented that the ingredient list on a package of American breakfast cereal "reads like the label on an insecticide." I hope Marthe Keller never read the label on that package of supermarket bread whose 26 (mostly chemical) ingredients I listed in Chic & Slim.

So what did she eat for breakfast when she was at home in Europe?
Marthe has stayed true to her Swiss background with regard to a large breakfast: eggs, yoghurt, health-store bread, coffee and fruit. She then likes to skip lunch in favour of a big dinner with wine.

Probably the thinnest of the women interviewed, Farrah Fawcett got by with breakfasting on the "high" from her 7:00 AM two-mile run.

Marie Helvin Bailey who was named England's Model of the Year in 1977 was 5 foot 8 inches and weighed 115 at the time of her interview for the Young At Any Age book. She claimed to follow the advice of the era's nutrition guru Adele Davis to "breakfast like a king, lunch like an prince, and dinner like a pauper." (In case some of you younger readers have never heard of Adele Davis, author of Letıs Eat Right!, she rapidly lost popularity when, instead of living healthily to 100 as her devotees felt was insured by the nutritional practices she advised, Adele Davis died of cancer in 1974 at age 70.) Marie Helvin Bailey's breakfast was porridge, fresh fruit juice, herbal tea, toast, cheese and fresh fruit. Lunch was then pasta, salad and cheese, and dinner a light vegetarian meal or just a little fruit.

American actress Ali MacGraw who was 40 at the time she was interviewed for Ira von Furstenberg's book said she ate a piece of fruit "to wake up" in the morning. Then a little later she has two cups of cafe au lait. Then she was off to an hour's workout with a trainer. She said, "After I've done my exercises, I eat some protein - some cheese or an egg. Lunch is a salad or an apple. For dinner I usually eat a piece of fish or meat and a big salad." She gave her height as 5 feet 8 inches and said she weighed about 120 pounds, but she was not sure. Like a great many French women, this American actress did not have scales in her house. As you can see from the above description, Ali MacGraw's breakfast was spread out over several hours.

When Barbara Walters told Ira von Furstenberg that she usually breakfasted on a wedge of apple pie or a brownie, the author wrote that the television personality obviously stayed slim in spite of what she ate, not because of it.

British actress Sian Phillips, picked by British Vogue as one of the ten most beautiful women in the world in 1965, was 47 at the time of her interview for the Young At Any Age book. Her height was 5 foot 8 inches and weight was 133. (Thatıs the same height as Sophia Loren, but 10 pounds lighter.) The interviewer wrote that Sian Phillips looked "skinny." Sian Phillips responded to the food question that she breakfasted on bacon and eggs, grapefruit, and coffee. Sian Phillips claimed to be a chain-smoker since age 15 and said that she drank "endless cups of coffee" during the day.

When I read the description of Sian Phillips lifestyle habits, I wondered how she had fared during more than two decades since she had given that interview. A little research turned up good news and bad news.

The good news was that not long after she gave that interview to Ira von Furstenberg, Sian Phillips gave up smoking. The bad news was that she gained "a stone and a half" (about 21 pounds) in the five weeks after she stopped smoking. The good news was that her weight gain was temporary. A recent photo of Sian Phillips, now in her late sixties, shows a slender, attractive woman. Formerly concentrating on her career as a film and stage actress, she has since embarked on a successful singing career. Her biography on hollywood.com begins:
This slender, willowy actress with hooded eyes and chiseled cheekbones has demonstrated her versatility in roles ranging from the bon vivant of Herbert Ross musical remake of "Goodbye, Mr. Chips" (1969) to the bloodthirsty Livia in "I, Claudius" (BBC, 1976) to impersonating screen legend Marlene Dietrich on stage in the 1990s.
Of the four French women interviewed for Young At Any Age's examination of international beauty, only one was specific as to her breakfast habits. This was jewelry and handbag designer Paloma Picasso, the daughter of Pablo Picasso and the French-born artist Françoise Gilot. Paloma Picasso said that she slept late, then about an hour after rising, she went out to a little Parisian tea shop that she liked. She breakfasted on coffee and a French pasty. Then she skipped lunch. Her coffee and pastry carried her through to dinner.

Before you take this as license to begin breakfasting on coffee and French pastry, those of you who live in the USA should probably read that section in the original Chic & Slim about the difference in so-called French pastries sold in the USA and real French pastry made in France. There are several real French pastries that come to mind in which the protein in the milk, eggs, nuts and the other quality ingredients might make it a more nutritious breakfast than some American packaged breakfast cereals. I can think of a number of French pastries available in France that would surely have less sugar than a bowl of many commercial breakfast cereals marketed in the USA today.

So what do you eat for breakfast to lose weight and stay slim? Surely it is obvious from what has been written here, that you can eat or not eat breakfast, that you can eat a large breakfast or a small breakfast -- or two breakfasts. You can eat a breakfast spread out over the whole morning, or you can eat a breakfast that serves as both breakfast and lunch. And you can still be slim. The trick is finding the breakfast that satisfies your level of morning hunger and still gives you the energy you need to get through to lunch -- and without mid-morning hunger discomfort. And remember that if you have been eating a large breakfast that you must gradually accustom your body and its digestive juices to a smaller amount of food.

How You Do It For Chic & Slim Success:

-- To lose weight, if you are eating a large breakfast high in simple carbohydrates and sugar, reduce the quantity of food eaten, especially the quantity of highly sugared foods, add some protein and healthy fat (such as a hard boiled egg) to keep you satisfied through the morning.

-- Adopt the French habit of drinking a glass of mineral (spring) water or regular tap water as soon as you rise in each morning and before you eat breakfast. Every other morning, drink a cup of warm water with a squeeze of lemon before breakfast.

-- Look at the variety of approaches to breakfast and design one for yourself that suits the amount of time you have available, your nutritional and energy needs, and what tastes good to you in the morning. Try several different breakfasts and see which works best to keep you slim and healthy.

-- Eat something else for breakfast instead of dry commercial cereal. Breakfast cereal is not chic!

Anne Barone||annebarone.com||30 July 2002


This Chic & Slim Technique Copyright İ 2002 Anne Barone All Rights Reserved

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